Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa

mapCrew : 5

Transportation : Car

Duration : Two Days

 

When I was invited to a road trip to Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa by one of my friends, I had my doubts whether will it be interesting as I have visited those places many times in my childhood.  But when he told me that two foreigners along with another Sri Lankan friend will join, I couldn’t resist. I’ve always wanted to travel Sri Lanka (at least a part of it) with foreigners and see it through their eyes, experience the difficulties they face. Therefore, I gladly confirmed my participation.

My friend came all the way from Kurunegala by his car and picked me up from Kandy around 8.30 am. We went straight to Dambulla and had some short eats for breakfast. Then left to Sigiriya. Other three participants were on a two week long trip, which started on the previous week and we joined them at the place they spend the last night at Sigiriya. We had a cup of tea while they checked out. Then headed to Anuradhapura. We talked about their travel experiences in Sri Lanka on the previous couple of Days and they were really friendly.

It was about 11am when we reached Anuradhapura town. We all were hungry and decided to look for a good place to eat. Once we stopped the car and got out, we realized how hot it was. We quickly went in to the nearest restaurant and luckily we had a tasty Brunch and appreciable service there. Around 11.30am we got back in to the car and started driving through the complex road network, in search of the Anuradhapura Old (puja) Town.

Being three out of us five are locals, it was hard to find the ticketing office for foreigners. We saw “Isurumuniya” name board and parked the car. Though I have visited Anuradhapura few times in my childhood, I haven’t been to Isurumuniya before. So I was excited as much as our two German friends! It was early May and we felt like sun have came closer by few light years. As it was a temple, we had to remove our shoes and hats. The floor was burning hot so we darted to a shady corner inside the premises. There wasn’t much to see in the left side so we went in to the “Vihara geya”. There are some paintings in the ceiling. We saw two famous stone carvings called “Man and the horse head” and “Elephants playing in the water”. There are few explanations about the “Man and the horse head” carving, but the famous idea is a soldier resting with his horse. The elephants were carved in the bottom of the rock, just above the water. So it seems the elephants are playing in the pond.
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It was too hot to walk outside. One of us was holding a shawl over the head to cover the unbearable heat. One of the guards screamed saying that it is not allowed inside the premises. Knowing the teachings of lord Buddha, we decided  it is not worth to spend our time explaining it to him and went to a shade near the entrance. There we met a local elderly female who quickly became friendly and expressed her worries about not providing a reasonable service for foreigners for the money they charge to visit Anuradhapura Puja Town. We came back to the car park and went to the “Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi”, a sapling of the Bo tree which gave shade to Lord Buddha for Enlightening. There were many fences with gold plating around the “Bodhi” and a stone outer wall. Normally it is not allowed to go inside those fences, so we walked around the the “Weli Maluwa” observing the pilgrims worshiping the sacred tree. Surprisingly it was much cooler under the “Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi” and we spent some time there before going back. With the not being able to bear the rays of mighty sun, we decided to go back to our accommodation (A Circuit Bungalow of my friend’s Company) and come back in the afternoon. After a shower we went straight to a nap, woke up around 3pm for our evening session. But the sky was gloomy and we hurried to cover all the places before a heavy shower.

On the way back we located the tourist information center in google maps and contacted the telephone number. The three of us Sri Lankan were embarrassed as a lady answered the call and explained that it is not an information center, but her house.  There was no direction alongside of the road about the tourist ticketing counter either. So we followed google maps for the tourist information center. Unfortunately the rain started and we were forced to go back to our accommodation by the half flooded roads and lightening. So it was time for us to re-plan the itinerary. As our German friends needed to visit the remaining places in Anuradhapura, we thought it is best to cover Anuradhapura in the next day morning quickly as possible and then visit Polonnaruwa via Aukana in the evening. We had an early dinner and went to sleep as soon as we could.
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We woke up in the morning and had our breakfast from the place we stayed. Food was tasty but we quickly finished it to start our visit. As we inquired from the Circuit keeper, he directed us to the Jethawanaramaya Museum where we could purchase All-in-One Anuradhapura Ticket for our German friends. We quickly covered the museum and went to the mighty Jethawanaramaya by the vehicle (You also can walk there, but the distance is considerably high and we were in a hurry, so we used the car).  It was amazing to imagine how things were at those old times while walking around them.

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Then we went to the Ruwanweli Seya, The Pagoda made by king Dutugemunu. Folklore reveals that even The king himself contributed the construction by bringing up bricks. In the final stages of the construction, Younger brother Saddhathissa takes over the project as King Dutugemunu falls sick. At the deathbed King Dutugemunu requests to see the completed pagoda. As there was not enough time to complete it before the great king dies, Prince Saddhathissa covers the uncompleted parts of the pagoda by white linen and take the king there. It is said that the king believed the construction was over, Worshiped the pagoda just before his last breath. At the time we visited there was a “Kap-ruk Pooja”, an offering of linen to the pagoda and it was getting crowded as it was two days before Wesak holidays. Between Ruwanweli seya and Sri Maha Bodiya (which we visited the day before) there is another special location called Lowamahapaya. Though now there are only ground level stone pillars left, It is said that there were a nine story building with a Bronze colored roof (hence the name, Lowa-Maha-Prasadaya) which remained the tallest building of the country except the pagodas Ruwanweli seya, Abhayagiriya and Jethawanaramaya between 155BC and 993AD. This building was destroyed by the attacks during the reign of King Saddhathissa and he had reconstructed it with seven stories.

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Our next stop was the Abhayagiriya Complex, which was used as a college to Bikkhus (Buddhist Monks) in the Anuradhapura era. Therefore, the ruins are spread around a vast area. Credit of Abhayagiri Pagoda construction goes to the youngest son of King Saddhathissa, king Walagamba ( 103 BC, 89-77 BC). As soon as he came to the throne there was an Indian Invasion which he couldn’t withstand, he retreated. At that time there was a Jain Shrine in this place and it is said the priest named “Giri” insulted the King “Here the great black Sinhalese King is retreating”. It took another 14 year for King Walagamba to defeat the invaders, but when he did He built this giant Stupa on the location of that Jain Shrine and named the Pagoda by combining the King’s name (Abhaya) and the Jain Priest’s name (Giri).

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After that we went to the “Samadhi Statue” of Lord Buddha. It was wonderful to see how the craftsmen have finished the live-like stone statue. It is believed there were four statues like this around a Bodhiya (Bo Tree), but the tree and other three statues are destroyed.  Then we stopped at “Thuparamaya” which is considered as the first Pagoda constructed after introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka. This was constructed by King Devanampiyathissa, enshrining the color bone of Lord Buddha. As the name reveals Thupa (Pagoda) + Aramaya (Where monks reside), there are ruins scattered around the pagoda which are suspected to be the roof for monks. With Thuparamaya, we finished our Anuradhapura tour and started our journey to Polonnaruwa via Awukana.

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It was around 12 pm when we reached “Awukana” after a long ride on countryside roads. The name “Awukana” means “Under the harsh sun rays”. The Standing Statue of Lord Buddha was constructed during the reign of King Dhathusena, Father of King Kashyapa (who resided in Sigiriya). Recently a roof over the masterpiece of skillful Sri Lankan craftsmanship has been constructed, but as our German friend highlighted it obstructs the grand view. It will be better if the roof height can be increased, but don’t know about the feasibility. They charge 1000LKR from foreigners just to see the statue. Sadly it would have been better if they could do some value addition to the visit at least like a Ticket with the Image of Awukana Statue with related information for the price foreigners have to pay. We brought some biscuits from a nearby shop, so we can wait until we reach Polonnaruwa for Lunch (A very late Lunch) . On the way back we slowed down a bit to capture the breathtaking view over the waters of “Kala wewa” which was also constructed and treasured by the King Dhathusena.

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It was around 3.30 pm when we reached Polonnaruwa. One of our friends had recommended a place to have the lunch, so we tracked the location. Google maps directed us along a narrow road off the main Road (A11) in between light green paddy fields. When we arrived the place, all we could see was a garden adjacent to a house and a young man working with some banana trees. We were worried that this must be a wrong place, but gladly the he confirmed that it is “Jaga Food”. We got a warm welcome and he ushered us to the restaurant i the back of the garden. It was an open area next to a pond with visitors’ comments all over on the ceiling. Though it was very late for lunch, they had their Lunch Buffet open. It was one of the tastiest rice and curry buffets i have been and they had Curd & Trickle, Papaya and Sri Lankan Pan cakes (A yellowish pan cake wrapped around a lump of pol pani – a coconut and trickle mix). Our hungry tummies as well as the souls were filled with their delicious food and hospitality. Our German friends took a minute to made a comment on their ceiling and we hurried to Polonnaruwa town after thanking Jaga and his wife.

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It was easy to find the Pollonnaruwa ticketing place at the Archeological museum as Jaga gave us the directions. Pollonnaruwa ruins were fairly located near to each other and we could access them by a vehicle (must-walk distance is very low). First we took a right turn as we entered the from the gate to visit ruins of the palace called “Vaijayanthi Prasadaya” of King Parakramabahu the first (1153-1186 BC). The main building is said be of seven stories and consisted of 1000 chambers but there is only signs of three stories and 55 chambers at present. South Indian invader called “Maaga” had set fire to this palace to destroy and you still can see burn marks on the brick wall. There were numerous remains of the royal palace scattered around and we were amazed to see that the drainage network of that time is still in good condition. We walked along the ancient paved pathway to visit the “Kumara Pokuna” (The royal bathing Place). It is said that this was constructed by King Parakramabahu, in his garden called “Nandana Uyana” which was below the level of palace. A nearby canal was used to bring water and poured into via two sprouts made like “Dragons”.

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Then we moved to the next ruins cluster, which is to the left from the main entrance. “Thivanka Pilimageya” is an image house as the name implies which was constructed by King Parakramabahu (1153-1186 AD). “Thivanka” means bent in three places,and the Buddha statue in here is bent from the Shoulder, Hip and the Knee (This pose is common in the guard stones). The Buddha statue is  believed to be about 8m in height but now it is less as the part above the head has been destroyed. Interior wall of this building is decorated with Polonnaruwa era paintings of “Jathaka Katha” and Incidents from the life of Lord Buddha while the exterior walls are decorated with various stone statues. It was so dark inside the building at that time, so i couldn’t take a good picture of the statue and paintings inside.
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“Watadageya” is in front of Thivanka Pilimageya and it is a Round (Wata) Stupa (Da) House (Geya).  There are few “watadageya” s in Sri Lanka. Polonnaruwa Watadageya is considered the best remaining of it’s kind. Madirigiriya and Thuparamaya (both in Anuradhapura) are other best examples. This is believed to be constructed by King Parakramabahu to safe keeping of the Tooth Relic or a work of King Nishshankamalla to hold the “Pathraya” (Alms Bowl) of Lord Buddha. A stone fence with very detailed designs and columns covers the inner brick wall which encloses the Stupa and Buddha Statues.

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Then there is “Atadageya”next to it, which once hold the sacred Tooth relic. This said to be a two story building constructed by King Vijayabahu the First. There is another more closed sturcture called “Hetadageya” adjacent to “Atadageya”. There is a Stone Door frame with very deatailed carvings and the stone walls have inscriptions. Walls are believed to be decorated with frescoes and carvings. This building too had multi stories and the remaining section of stair case is still in good condition. Finally we visited “Sathmahal Prasadaya” at the same site. As the name Sath (seven) Mahal (Story) Prasadaya (Building) implies there are seven stories to this building (Which are still can be seen). This is said to be a Square shaped Stupa, which is very rare in Sri Lanka.
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Then we drove to the Pollonnaruwa Gal Vihara complex car park under the gloomy dark sky. It started to drizzle as we walked towrds Gal viharaya but as it was our last stop, we didn’t care to wait till it stops. The distance we had to walk is less than 500m. There are four Granite Statues of Lord Buddha in all three poses. One large statue in seated pose adjacent to a smaller similar statue inside a “Kuti” (room) called “Vidyadara Guhawa”. A standing statue and a reclining statue. The place said to be called “Uththararamaya” andconsidered to be a work of King Parakramabahu the First. Recently a roof has been constructed over these figures in order to protect them. We couldn’t spend much time there due to the rain and we came back to the parking lot and started to drive back home. We reached Kandy around 9pm and our foreign friends stayed with the plans to visit Kandy on coming days.

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Hot Air Ballooning

MapCrew : 13
Transportation : Cars (To Dambulla), Hot Air Balloon
Duration : Two days

One of my friends invited  me to join for a Hot Air Balloon ride. I was surprised by the invitation as i thought it was a bit unaffordable luxury, and immediately inquired about the cost. It was way cheaper than i was expecting, so i confirmed my participation without a hesitation.

The Balloon ride starts early in the morning, so me and few other friends thought it will be best to go to Dambulla on the day before. Three of us came from Colombo directly to Dambulla by bus. The one who invited me, drove his car all the way from Kurunegala and picked me and another one from Kandy. We all reached Dambulla around 2.30 pm and decided to have a late Lunch. It took us more than an hour to finish the lunch as we were busy talking, than eating.

We had reserved a place in Dambulla for six of us to stay, and it took a while to figure out the exact location. It was a hot evening in Dambulla, so we rushed in to the rooms and turned on the AC’s. It was around 7.30 pm when I finished resting and had a shower.
😀

It was time to search for a place to have dinner!
We walked to Dambulla town under the faint street lights. The streets were less crowded, but there were few long distant buses waiting for passengers. We settled for a place with privacy and Air condition after checking out few other restaurants. They offered the menu and we had a very hard time deciding what to eat. But when we are going to place the order, the waiter said there is only Fried Rice and Noodles! So we had to select again, but it was easier to pick one out of two.

When we were going back to the hotel, I met an old lady selling “Pera” (Guava) outside the restaurant. I was wondering, are there anyone interested in buying Guava from the street around 9pm. I felt bad for her and bought one. We had to take showers again after the walk and felt asleep as soon as head hit the pillow.

The alarms rang and I woke up within a second with the excitement for a ride of a lifetime. We were ready by 5am and the guys from “Sri Lanka Balloon” contacted us to inform that they have arrived to the Hotel gate. We hurried in to the van. They picked up two foreigners on the way and started driving on a narrow road towards a village. Soon we saw a Lorry, carrying the basket of the Balloon. It was the first time for all of us to see a Balloon, so we focused our excited eyes and cameras for a glimpse of that through the darkness.  The take-off point was a school ground. The rest of our team arrived there by two cars. One was from Colombo and the other one from Kandy. There were 13 of us in the team, five girls and eight boys. We completed the payments before take-off and watched the crew working hard to prepare the Balloon.

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There were two Balloons, one for us and another one for few foreigners. It took two lorries to carry the basket and the Inflating part of a Balloon. They assembled them together and started filling air with portable industrial fans. Our pilot then took position in the basket and blew “Hot Air” in to the Balloon. It only took about 15 minutes to fill the balloon with air and we were asked to jump in to the basket.

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With another shoot of gas in to the Balloon, we were ascending over the trees. It was a gentle take-off and no one was afraid at that moment, though we have analyzed the risks earlier. Still the sun was sleeping and sky was dark. Within few minutes we were about 700 meters high and watching the very first rays of sun light over the Kandalama Lake. That was a breathtaking scenery to watch, up from the sky. We all were busy with our cameras to capturing that awesome moment. Our Turkish pilot, Umit was very friendly and shared his experiences and showed photos of his Balloon rides in Turky.

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There were another two Balloons in the sky with us. We had to spend some time over the Kandalama Lake as there was less wind to carry us away. We saw people coming out of the houses to have a closer look at the Balloons floating over. Though ballooning has started some time ago, most of the villagers were excited to see us. We saw the lorries (witch brought the balloon to the take-off point) were following the balloon. Umit said that as the pilot can only control the vertical movement of the balloon, the landing destination depends on the wind at that time. We were able to see Dambulla Cave Temple, Sigiriya and Pidurangala from the distance, after the mist faded off. After about 1.5 hours we were floating tree height in search of a good landing place. We were able to pick the leaves from top of the trees and wasn’t afraid of a crash landing as we saw how skilled our pilot was.

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I was hungry at this point and was glad that I took the Guava (that i purchased last night) with me. It was tasty and I regretted not buying more. There was an empty space between few houses near a road. Our pilot descended the balloon about ten feet high above the ground and threw the Sand bag attached to the basket by a rope to the crew in the ground. They pulled the rope and tied it. The landing too was gentle and we didn’t feel a thing. The crew asked us to stay in the basket and the pilot opened the top part of the balloon to let the hot air out. Then we came out and the crew was busy folding the balloon. There were around 20 people staring and photographing our landing. The Crew gave us small gifts to distribute among the village kids and we felt like celebrities!
😀

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After few minutes we gathered in a nearby open space, There was a Champagne to celebrate, and soft drinks. There was an action camera hanging from the side of the balloon and they were recording our ride. We purchased the video and received certificates for the balloon ride. It was around 8.30 in the morning and they provided transport back to our hotel. We quickly packed our bags and checked-out. Our next stop was the place we had brunch yesterday. The Breakfast was tasty and we had a lot to talk about until 10.30 am. Then we decided to visit Sigiriya, the rock fortress of King Kashyapa and came back to Kandy around 5.30pm.

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Photo Credits : Amila Dananjaya De Silva, Chamitha Rathnayake, Chamith Nilanka Wijesinghe, Cabe Abeyrathne

Contact : Sri Lanka Balloon, https://www.facebook.com/srilankaballoon/

Knuckles – Five peaks

Map 1Crew : 13 (A guide, villager and a friendly boy joined the crew additionally)

Transportation : Cars (Kandy – Hagalla Estate Bungalow), Three Wheeler [Tuk Tuk] (Hagalla Estate to Knuckles Nature Trail head), Hiking (Knuckles five peaks) followed the same route back

Duration : One Day

(Please note that the path marked on the map is not a GPS track but only a graphical representation)

There was about a month of silence after the last trip we went. So when a suggestion came up for visiting Knuckles Forest reserve for the “Five peaks Hike” I had nothing holding me back and confirmed my participation. It was a long weekend and we arranged the hike on a Saturday, so that we have a day for resting before going back to work. Most of the participants were around from kandy but 4 out of 13 came all the way from colombo the day before and spent the night at the Superintendent’s Bungalow of Hagalle Estate. Our plan was to departure from Kandy around 5.30 am but was delayed from one hour. We used personal vehicles to reach Hagalle estate but bendy unfamiliar road took some time than we expected. We had to travel around 35 km from Wattegama and the surrounding was somewhat familier after our hike to Thunhisgala .

As the Knuckles five peaks trail head is few kilometers away from Hagalle Estate, we had arranged four three wheelers to go there. It was around 10.00 am when we started the bumpy three wheeler (Tuk Tuk) ride and there were few places we had to get off from tuk tuks (just because our weight was too much for them to pull!)  😀

After many getting offs and getting back ins we reached the trail head around 10.30 am. We distributed the water bottles we brought among ourselves and each had more than 3 liters of water. At the trail head, there is a monument which villagers use to hang few leaves of a tree and pray for blessings of a god for the journey ahead. The view from the trail head was amazing and we could see our destination from there. Our guide took few minutes to tell us the “Rawana” related stories about the region before starting the climb.

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The smaller mountains adjacent to Famous Knuckles fve peaks are called “Bada Dandu Kandu” (meaning bamboo mountains) and are the mountains mentioned in tales of king “Rawana” as he said. There is no one who have visited there in the known past and highly populated with sambar and deer as he told. It was somewhat covered in mist at that moment and the stories we heard made us want to go there, the ice cold mountains hiding unexplored mysteries.

Few minutes after we entered the “Knuckles Nature Trail”, there was a stream of crystal clear water. Our guide took us in a small detour to visit the Knuckles Falls. It was smaller in height and width but created a magnificent scene with the filtered rays of sun. We decided not to spend much time there as we were already late and came back to the track after few minutes. The climb was steep at most parts of the trail and it made me the first one to exhaust among the crew. I took many water/chocolate breaks to avoid cramping and the guide offered me to carry my backpack.

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It took more than 2 hours for us to reach the first peak. There were few natural resting places with great views.On the way up we saw “Dumbara An Katussa or Leaf nose Lizard (Ceratophora tennentii)”. As most of us were exhausted we took a quick break for a snack. Our guide suggested that we should wait until the 2nd peak for lunch, so we continued the climb.

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We were exhausted by the time we stopped for lunch. Few of us were high on “Jeewani” and I used more than 2 l of water! We ate bread with “Seeni sambol” and Strawberry Jam. “Cream Cracker”biscuits, Cheese and Marsh-mellows filled the remaining volume of our tummies.  We sent only about 30 minutes there and start trekking for the 3rd peak. The climb from there was comparatively easy and we reached the end around 3 pm.

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We spent some time there pointing our eyes to the “Bata Dandu Kandu” with the hoping a glimpse of a Sambar, but we didn’t. Our descend was quicker and reached the bottom around 5.30 pm. Our guide wanted to show us at least one sambar, so he guided us to a (not so frequently used) foot path covered with head high bushes. The sun went down quickly taking our last hopes for seeing a Sambar away. We continued the walk in the dark foot path praying, not to meet snakes! After many Kilometers of walking, we reached to a motor-able road and hired three tuk tuks. It was around 8 pm when we reached back to the  Superintendent’s bungalow and had a warm cup of tea. We came to Kandy around 11 pm with the aching legs and bruised hands, but with the satisfaction of a great hike.

Photo credits: Amila Dananjaya De Silva, Chamitha Rathnayake, P S Harshendra, Cabe Abeyrathna

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Wilpattu, The Land of Ponds..

It was a while we, University friends  went on a trip. So we decided it’s time. Our initial suggestion was Wilpattu, and it was seconded by all without any hesitation. Then we tried to reserve a wildlife department bungalow inside the national park, so that our transportation time will be minimized while we have full time viewing access to the National park. Then we heard the bad news, all wildlife department bungalows were booked one and half months early. There were few discussions to change the destination, but all were disappointed with the situation. One day a friend came with a good news, He was able to reserve few rooms in a nearby place to wilpattu through a contact. So the planning began. We thought of utilizing a full day to travel inside Wilpattu. So we have spare 12 hours on the day we are travelling from Kandy. One came up with the suggestion, Thonigala and we thought of spending the rest in Picturesque Kalpitiya Beach. We hired a Van and started our trip around 7 am since we had a lots of spare time. It was around 9 am when we stopped at Kurunegala to pick one of our friends and to have the breakfast. Around 11.30 we reached Thonigala, and we spent quite long time taking photographs and wandering around the Lake near Thonigala inscript. Then we travelled to puttalam and the large portions of breakfast kept us going around 2.30 pm without stopping for the lunch. We didn’t planned for a place to have the lunch since it is hard to predict exact time and location when there are many photographers in the group. 😀 We searched for a place nearby and finally “Foursquare” came for the help. It suggested about a hotel nearby, called “Palmyra Village Hotel”. We just went there because we were lack of options since it is too late for lunch. But the food was great (To the standards of a local boutique hotel) and we had Seafood Fried Rice, Which is their identity. It was a long lunch as we had a lot to talk and needed a break from sitting inside the van.

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It was around 3 pm when we reached to Kalpitiya beach, and we just jumped into our swimwear and walked to the sea. The sun was burning hot and that made harder for us to walk on the sand. We knew that Kalpitiya is one of the world famous Kite Surfing destinations but didn’t realized it is that much interesting until we saw it. The famous Kite Surfing Lagoon was just a Beach stripe away and the scenery of people riding Huge Kites, attracted us to the lagoon. It was an awesome feeling even just to watch them surfing and one item was added to the bucket list 😛 We came back to the beach and stayed dipped in the sea water to avoid the harsh rays of the burning sun until around 5.30 pm. We had to leave Kalpitiya at that time as we had to find a place to have our dinner and to buy some food to bring to our accommodation. It was around 7.30 pm when we reached back to Puththalam and brought some food to have on the safari jeep ride as well as to prepare breakfast and lunch for the next day. Most of us had a light dinner and hurried to our accommodation. We reached there around 9 pm and it was surprisingly closer to the Wilpattu National Park. It is Just in front of the Park Gate and was in very good condition. We thought of going to sleep early as we are supposed to wake up in the morning. Then we got an invitation from another group who was staying at the same place to join with them for a BBQ. As we had a light dinner and they seemed very nice people, we couldn’t decline the invitation. Most of them are from the same professions as ours and all are wild life enthusiasts. We stood awake talking with them until it was midnight and finally decided to sleep. Beds were comfortable and as fans worked full time to cool down the heated air to a bearable level, we had a 6 hour long sleep under the cover of mosquito nets.

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As our friend and the accommodation caretaker promised, there was a safari jeep ready in front of the “Wilpattu Holiday Home” exactly ay 6.30 am. Caretaker and his wife had prepared Noodles for Breakfast and Kadala (Peas) from the things we provided them last night. We just had some snacks before starting the jeep safari and planned to have the breakfast near “Kumbuk Willu”. For some reason there wasn’t a Wildlife department guide/tracker available so we decided to continue the journey as we could use our experienced safari jeep driver as the guide since he was born and raised in the wilpattu area. There were three friends among us who usually take part in wildlife observation tours with the group “Haritha Diyatha” and it was a huge advantage for us as they had the knowledge about wildlife in wilpattu as well as they had required sources (Books and Leaflets) when we need to search about the animals we observed. One of those friends told us to focus on every single bird, insect and reptile we see as then we can make this trip worthwhile, even if we didn’t see any mammals. We all agreed that it is a good idea because we heard that no one has seen any leopard in past two days. Our driver had a hard time driving the jeep 1cm forward and 2 cms backward all the way along the journey to give us a better view of birds as 6 out of 9 of us had DSLRs or Bridge Cameras aiming out of the safari jeep. We reached “Kumbuk Willu” around 10.30 am and had our breakfast there. We saw a giant elephant enjoying some kind of grass on the water bed of “Kumbuk willu” few feets away from us only after finishing the breakfast. We observed few “wali kukulo” who were waiting to feed on any leftovers of the travelers meals. It was comparatively clean and free from polythene but still we saw few biscuit packets and lunch sheets here and there.

In the evening we went to see “Thambapanniya”, where the King “Vijaya” has first set his foot on this island as legends relate. The name “Thambapanni” means “Tin (Lead- plumbum) colored soil”. Actually the soil still looks a like and there we observed some kind of different soil/ rock formations, which we couldn’t explain from the little geology knowledge we had. We had our lunch nearby, and started the evening safari. We were lucky enough to see Few dozens of Bird species, Few Reptiles and mammals. That includes Deer, Wild Boar, Elephant, Water Buffalo, and a baby Sloth Bear at last 🙂

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Arugam Bay

MapCrew : 11

Transportation : Public Bus and a hired Van

Duration : Two Days

After a long time we have planned to go on a trip to Arugam Bay. Me and three other friends rushed to the Colombo – Panama CTB Bus, which leaves colombo fort bus stand at 7 pm while other seven friends started their journey around 4 pm from Kandy by the hired Van. The bus was too crowded but fortunately we have reserved our seats in the morning of the same day so we had seats though we arrived to the bus stand in the last minute. Most of the people were to Rathnapra and Awissawella and almost only the people who were seated were left after passing Rathnapura.

The bus took nearly 8 hours to reach Pottuvil Town after stopping at two places to eat, rest and refresh. Our friends who came by the van were arrived two hours earlier even after stopping at one friends’ house for dinner in Monaragala. We just went to sleep after having a bath though we slept almost all the way down to Pottuvil. It was around 8 am when we all got up and prepared to explore the east cost. Before starting our journey, we had parata for breakfast in a small cafe in Pottuvil town and then went straight to Kudumbigala Aranya. Kudumbigala aranya is a place where Buddhist monks use to Meditate and stay apart from the disturbances of the secular world. The route to Kudumbigala is through the Kumana National Park, which has the highest Bird density among all the National parks in Sri Lanka. We were fortunate to see a Fox, Crocodile, Monkeys, Sri Lankan Junglefowl (Gallus lafayetii), Peacocks (Peafowl) and many other birds that i haven’t seen earlier. The Friends came by the van have seen couple of elephants in the previous day evening.

Kudumbigala aranya is surrounded by a heavy grown forest and there is a pathway to the top of the small hill, which a vehicle cannot access. The path was looked that it is being swept daily. The surrounding is calm and it was surprisingly cool environment.
On the top of the hill there are ruins of a pagoda, and a newly built statue of Lord Buddha. There weren’t many people in Kudumbigala at the time we visited. The monks were at the “Daana shalawa” (a place which has built to serve food to the monks) when we go there.

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Then we went to “Balum Gala” which is near the Kudumbigala. It is said that this place has been used to communicate with distant places by smoke or voice signals since a vast area is visible to that place. After a long photo shoot we came back to Pottuvil town to have the lunch. We went to a place called Village Hut, where accommodation is provided in small tree houses. Since it was almost the evening we had to wait for some time until they prepare our lunch. So we thought of playing beach rugby. After some time we went back there. The food seemed tastier as we were starving. After the lunch, we went to Arugam Bay by our van and played until we were dead tired. Since it was the off season there weren’t much surfers. We had the chance to pull few fishing boats to the sea shore. Then we came back to our lodge to have a wash and refresh before going to have the dinner. We found a decent place called Bay Vista to buy the dinner (But the food was a bit over priced). People there were good and friendly. We came back to the lodge at around 11 pm and all went to sleep straight away.

After having a good nap we woke up a little bit earlier than the previous day and left pottuvil early in the morning even without having the breakfast. One of our friends live in Monaragala and he invited us to have brunch there. The food which was made by my friend’s Mom was tasty and all ate more than they could. 🙂 He gave us steamed corn to eat on the way. We arrived Kandy around 4 pm even after stopping at another friend’s house in theldeniya for tea.

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Pattipola – Nuwara Eliya – Kandy Bike Ride

UntitledCrew : 4

Transportation : Train and Mountain bicycles

Duration : Two Days

This time we thought of extending our previous route and ride from Pattipola to Kandy. We took our bicycles to Pattipola by Train and went Pattipola by Kandy – Badulla Night mail train. It left Kandy at 3.30 a.m. and It is one of the most beautiful scenes that i have seen, the dawn through cold misty mountains on the way to Pattipola. The train reached Pattipola railway station around 10.30 a.m. and it took another 30 minutes to clear our bicycles from the station. A drizzle started as soon as we entered the road, we decided to stop for a while. But started riding again in the rain because the rain didn’t stopped. We had our brunch in a roadside cafe and realized Roti, pol sambol and tea are the perfect match for the cold and rainy weather.
🙂
There are two roads from Ambewela to Nuwara Eliya. one is Peradeniya-Badulla-Chenkaladi (PBC) Highway (18.3 kms) and the other is Blackpool-Ambewela-Pattipola-Hortain plains road (15 kms) . Since we had to ride in the rain as any of us hadn’t brought rain coats and the Blackpool-Ambewela-Pattipola-Hortain plains road had a better scenic view, we decided to use that road. We stopped many times to rest because the road had more climbs than downhills. It was like a completely different country there but the sadness is any of us couldn’t use our cameras in the rain because they weren’t waterproofed. We stopped at Ambewela farms dairy shop and had chocolate milk and fresh yoghourt. We saw some local visitors throw empty yoghourt cups to the road while there are several dust bins few feet away.
😦
On the way one of our bicycles had a trouble with the free wheel and we had to take it to Nuwara Eliya by a Three Wheeler. We arrived Nuwara Eliya around 6 p.m. and went for the dinner after a rest and a hot water bath. Dinner was great and the whole day cycling made the food tastier.

After a long sleep we started our second day of the journey. First thing we had to do in the morning was to repair the bicycle with the freewheel trouble and we found a place with a skilled and a kind owner near the St.Xavier’s Church, Nuwara Eliya.  After that we had our breakfast, bought rain coats and then started the ride. As first couple of kilometers from Nuwara Eliya town to top pass (Nuwara Eliya town limit) is the steepest climb of the entire ride, it was around 10.30 a.m. when we reached top pass. We have mounted our cameras to bicycles and then started down hill cycling. Unfortunately the rain started again and the whole world around us covered in a thick layer of mist that we couldn’t see even few meters ahead. We had to slow down and follow a queue of vehicle lights until Mackwoods tea center. We waited there sipping tea and having chocolate cake about an hour until heavy rain stops. Then we all checked and adjusted our brakes again and started downhill ride. The mist was thicker this time and ice cold rain drops managed to hit right on our faces. We took very few breaks because we were already late due to the rain and mist. It was around 7 p.m when we reached near Peradeniya and had a rest @ faculty of Engineering , University of Peradeniya. I was exhausted  because it was the first time that i have been on the mountain bicycle for consecutive two days but was happy to be back on the bicycle.

If you are planning to ride from Nuwara Eliya in a rainy season it is better to have a rain coat, riding glasses and a mountable torch in case u have to ride in the misty weather. And be completely confident about your bicycle, specially the breaks and gears because a drizzle can drastically reduce the grip between break pads and the rim as well as reduce the lubricity on gear wheels and the chain causing the chain skip between gear changes.

photo credits : Sarith senarath and Kalhara jayasinghe

Downhill cycling video :

 

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Meemure

mapCrew : 10

Duration : Two days

Transport : Bus, Public transport service (Van)

Meemure is a Valley in knuckles mountain range. One should travel around 42 Kms in KMP (Kandy-Mahiyanganaya-Padiyathalawa) highway from Kandy to Hunnasgiriya and then again travel about 31 kms in Hunnasgiriya-Meemure road. There is a transport service from Hunnasgiriya to Meemure which charges a reasonable price in the scheduled time table, but will charge more if you want to arrange a van at your convenience. We used public bus service to reach Hunnasgiriya and then traveled to Meemure by a van. It will take more time to go Meemure from Hunnasgiriya than Kandy to Hunnasgiriya, because of the poor road condition. If you are expecting to travel by a private vehicle, A van or a 4 wheel vehicle is recommended.

Since Meemure is surrounded by mountains, there was no mobile network coverage (hope still the same). Meemure post office has a fixed line telephone connection and as i heard that is the only telephone line existed. If you plan to stay more than a day it is better to buy everything you need before passing Hunnasgiriya, because it will be very difficult to find anything other than the essentials inside the village. There are many sites for camping and came to know that there are few cottages which can be rented. We located our tent near the stream which is few kilometers away from the village. We carried a kerosine oil cooker with us and prepared food ourselves except one meal. The villagers are very friendly and one prepared a meal for us for a very reasonable price and it was tasty (Y) .

If you are planning to travel meemure in early september, you will be able to climb “Lake gala”, which is a steep rock near Meemure. Villagers said that it will be slippery in other times of the year. Meemure is a place where you can find the beauty of nature still unharmed by humans and was the main location of the movie “Sooriya arana”. The time spent there without any interactions (No calls, no texting, no Internet so no Social Networking) with the outer world is one of the best relaxation i’ve ever had.
🙂

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