Ella Rock

Map

Crew : 6

Transportation : Cars (Kandy to Ella and back), Walk (Ella Rock)

Duration : Two Days

 

There was a long weekend coming and one of my friends suggested to go on a road trip. Though we had many suggestions earlier for road trips, all were limited to planing stage. So we decided it is better to plan a small road trip with more time allocated to sightseeing than driving. “Ella” won most of our votes. There were only six people confirmed participation (Including me) and two cars were more than enough. To make that more of a road trip, we decided to go to Nuwara Eliya on the first day and then drive to Ella and spend the night there. Our initial plan was to camp at Ella rock but we found out that it is not allowed to camp there now as someone has set fire (may be mistakenly but it is totally irresponsible) in recent past. We were angry with the people who are responsible to the fire for ruining a another best camping location for Sri Lankans. So we had to search for accommodation and found a decent place in Ella town for reasonable price.

We spend the night of the previous day at a friend’s house. We started our drive around 9 am from Pilimathalawa by two cars. We had breakfast in Gampola town and took our time driving up to the misty hills of Nuwaraeliya. All four of the usual partners for bicycle rides (Read more about our bicycle rides from Nuwara Eliya to Kandy and Pattipola to Kandy) were there, so we took a break to have a good cup of tea at our favorite spot. A hot cup of tea combined with a piece of chocolate cake from Macwoods Labukellie tea Centre was the ideal combination for the misty and cold weather. It took around another half an hour to take a group photo and hang around the observation deck.
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Next we drove up to NuwaraEliya town. It was just around noon and we were not hungry. So we went to the park next to the Lake Gregory and enjoyed the warm sun rays filtering through the misty clouds. It was a long weekend and the park was fairly crowded. Children were in line to take a ride on a Pony while a bit older crowd were focusing on a Zip line across the park. After spending sometime lying on the ground we thought of checking out the kayaks that were for rent. It was 500 LKR per kayak for 45 minutes. We rented three kayaks and teamed up to balance the weight! 😀 We had to be seated when they pushed the kayaks to water from a feet height lake bank. We were bit worried about the balance and splash of water, but they managed to put our kayaks to water safely.
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It was easier than it looked. We got used to the kayaks and rowed them to the other corner of Lake Gregory. We were busy with taking photographs and suddenly realized that the lake surface is empty and we were the only people in the middle of the water. Then a sharp whistling noise pointed us to the sky. A seaplane was about to land on us!!!
😛
So we used the full strength and rowed our kayaks to the closest river bank. The plane landed afterwards giving us better opportunities to take more photos. We decided to head back to the land to have the lunch. We searched for restaurant suggestions in the internet  and went straight to “Salmiya” restaurent but they had many orders waiting so we decided to look for something else as we were extremely hungry. Our next stop was “Calamander Lake Gregory”. We ordered soon and enjoyed our food for more than an hour before starting the journey up to Ella.
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We reached Ella around 5 pm and took some time to rest after the long drive. It was drizzling and the whole world was covered in freezing cold mist when we looked outside. We had no choice but to go out for Dinner. We went straight to Cafe Chill as we were there before and it was popular for their tasty dishes. It was 30th of December and they had a DJ organized. So we thought to go there and asked the staff about it. Sadly the waiter informed that they have limited it only for foreigners due to some issues occurred sometime before. It was a big slap for Locals but we had to accept the fact that the owners made the decision in favor of their industry and the good name of Sri Lanka. So we went straight back to the place we booked and went to bed early with the hopes of starting the Ella rock Journey early in the morning.
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It was around 4 am when i woke up by the alarm. We hurried in to our hiking clothes and went toward the Ella rock road by a car. We were said that the by road to Ella rock is on the left hand, so we decided to use google maps to find the location. It took only 30 minutes to reach the google map location but we couldn’t find any junction. So we decided to seek help from a villager. But we couldn’t find anyone as it was too early. Then a Threwheeler came towards us and we asked them about the directions. They directed us towards a junction on the road we came and when we went, there wasn’t any by road. So we searched on our own for around 30 minutes and found out that the people who we asked for directions had mislead us, The by road was just few meters ahead of the place where we met them! That was one of the worst experiences I have ever had.

We drove on that road and came to a dead end near the Kithal-Ella Railway station. The final part of the road is not in a good condition but our car managed to do some Off road-ing. We parked it near by and went down on a foot path to the railway station. There was a villager feeding his cow nearby and he kindly lead us towards the trail to Ella rock.
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You have to walk on the rail track for few meters from Kithal-Ella railway station until the 166.25 sign post and take a left turn to the foot steps towards the small tea plantation. Few steps after we found a a small bridge over a crystal clear water stream but sadly the Sun came out at the exact same time. We had high hopes to capture the rising sun from Ella rock, as we heard that is a marvelous experience. But with the delay to finding the correct by road, we missed that. There was a small shop (like thing) adjacent to a clay (wattle and daub) house. We decided to have a break there as we are already late. There were biscuits so we bought a packet and had some plain tea. She was looking after three small kids (her grand children) while their parents are working somewhere, Faces of those kids gave us a clear idea about the hardship of life that they are facing. Old lady confirmed our trail is correct and gave us some tips stay on the main trail without wandering to one of many foot paths there. There was few dogs and one decided to climb the rock with us.
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The climb was less intense for most of the part and we met few groups of foreigners on the way. Gigantic umbrella of trees filtered the warm sun rays and unveiled the beautiful sky from time to time. It was a wonderful experience and we could imagine how it will be at the sun rise. After about 45 minutes of climbing we reached to a plane, Which could have been an excellent camping location.
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Just after that the climb began, it isn’t the hardest but comparatively the way up to that point is much easier. We took many breaks to catch our breath and capture many photos as we could. We met a couple and few groups of foreigners each after a dog guiding them to the top!
😀

There are two path from the top, one towards Rawana Ella and the other just leading to the Ella town side. We spent around an hour there under the thick shade of the pine trees before starting the journey back to Ella town.
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We went straight back to the place we spend the night and packed the bags. Then went to the same cafe we had the dinner last night and had a long satisfying lunch. It was around 2 pm when we finished and decided to drive back home. We reached Mahiyanganaya around 5pm and I had left to Ampara for work while others going to Kandy.

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Knuckles – Five peaks

Map 1Crew : 13 (A guide, villager and a friendly boy joined the crew additionally)

Transportation : Cars (Kandy – Hagalla Estate Bungalow), Three Wheeler [Tuk Tuk] (Hagalla Estate to Knuckles Nature Trail head), Hiking (Knuckles five peaks) followed the same route back

Duration : One Day

(Please note that the path marked on the map is not a GPS track but only a graphical representation)

There was about a month of silence after the last trip we went. So when a suggestion came up for visiting Knuckles Forest reserve for the “Five peaks Hike” I had nothing holding me back and confirmed my participation. It was a long weekend and we arranged the hike on a Saturday, so that we have a day for resting before going back to work. Most of the participants were around from kandy but 4 out of 13 came all the way from colombo the day before and spent the night at the Superintendent’s Bungalow of Hagalle Estate. Our plan was to departure from Kandy around 5.30 am but was delayed from one hour. We used personal vehicles to reach Hagalle estate but bendy unfamiliar road took some time than we expected. We had to travel around 35 km from Wattegama and the surrounding was somewhat familier after our hike to Thunhisgala .

As the Knuckles five peaks trail head is few kilometers away from Hagalle Estate, we had arranged four three wheelers to go there. It was around 10.00 am when we started the bumpy three wheeler (Tuk Tuk) ride and there were few places we had to get off from tuk tuks (just because our weight was too much for them to pull!)  😀

After many getting offs and getting back ins we reached the trail head around 10.30 am. We distributed the water bottles we brought among ourselves and each had more than 3 liters of water. At the trail head, there is a monument which villagers use to hang few leaves of a tree and pray for blessings of a god for the journey ahead. The view from the trail head was amazing and we could see our destination from there. Our guide took few minutes to tell us the “Rawana” related stories about the region before starting the climb.

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The smaller mountains adjacent to Famous Knuckles fve peaks are called “Bada Dandu Kandu” (meaning bamboo mountains) and are the mountains mentioned in tales of king “Rawana” as he said. There is no one who have visited there in the known past and highly populated with sambar and deer as he told. It was somewhat covered in mist at that moment and the stories we heard made us want to go there, the ice cold mountains hiding unexplored mysteries.

Few minutes after we entered the “Knuckles Nature Trail”, there was a stream of crystal clear water. Our guide took us in a small detour to visit the Knuckles Falls. It was smaller in height and width but created a magnificent scene with the filtered rays of sun. We decided not to spend much time there as we were already late and came back to the track after few minutes. The climb was steep at most parts of the trail and it made me the first one to exhaust among the crew. I took many water/chocolate breaks to avoid cramping and the guide offered me to carry my backpack.

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It took more than 2 hours for us to reach the first peak. There were few natural resting places with great views.On the way up we saw “Dumbara An Katussa or Leaf nose Lizard (Ceratophora tennentii)”. As most of us were exhausted we took a quick break for a snack. Our guide suggested that we should wait until the 2nd peak for lunch, so we continued the climb.

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We were exhausted by the time we stopped for lunch. Few of us were high on “Jeewani” and I used more than 2 l of water! We ate bread with “Seeni sambol” and Strawberry Jam. “Cream Cracker”biscuits, Cheese and Marsh-mellows filled the remaining volume of our tummies.  We sent only about 30 minutes there and start trekking for the 3rd peak. The climb from there was comparatively easy and we reached the end around 3 pm.

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We spent some time there pointing our eyes to the “Bata Dandu Kandu” with the hoping a glimpse of a Sambar, but we didn’t. Our descend was quicker and reached the bottom around 5.30 pm. Our guide wanted to show us at least one sambar, so he guided us to a (not so frequently used) foot path covered with head high bushes. The sun went down quickly taking our last hopes for seeing a Sambar away. We continued the walk in the dark foot path praying, not to meet snakes! After many Kilometers of walking, we reached to a motor-able road and hired three tuk tuks. It was around 8 pm when we reached back to the  Superintendent’s bungalow and had a warm cup of tea. We came to Kandy around 11 pm with the aching legs and bruised hands, but with the satisfaction of a great hike.

Photo credits: Amila Dananjaya De Silva, Chamitha Rathnayake, P S Harshendra, Cabe Abeyrathna

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Nil Diya Pokuna Cave

mapCrew : 12 + 3 guides

Transportation : Car, Some members used Train (Colombo – Ella) and Public Buses (Ella – Colombo)

Duration : Two Days

We had early plans to visit a place called Nil Diya Pokuna, which is an underground pond in a cave near Ella, Sri Lanka. After many considerations we fixed a date in the last week of December, 2016.

I browsed about “Nil Diya Pokuna” but information available was very little. It is said to be a pond inside a cave or a tunnel complex built by king Rawana and most of it is still unexplored. Many people have mistakenly visited the place marked as the “Rawana Cave” in Google maps thinking it is the location of Nil Diya Pokuna, but it is just a very small cave compared to this. Even villagers tend not to give clear directions to this place because of the recent attempts to grab media attention by some people claiming they have special powers and going to awake the king Rawana back! Whether this is built by king Rawana or another human or created due to natural causes is still to be discovered. Until then keeping this intact is our responsibility. Karandagolle Sugatharansi Thero of Karandagolla Temple and “Meththananda” (0726 108 392) are few of the people who knows the place really well.

Participants for this journey came from all over the country, so many chose the famous transportation medium Colombo – Badulla Train. But me and another two of my friends had some other plans so we used a car. Two of my friends Started their journey from Kandy around 4 pm and it was about 6.30 pm when i joined them from Mahiyanganaya. One of my friends had reserved a home-stay called “Tree Cold Resort” and it was around 8 pm when we reached Ella. We made a call and asked the Owner of the place for dinner on our way and he arranged a delicious meal within 30 minutes. After having dinner we had a little chat with the home-stay owner. He told us that he is going to Ella rock early in the morning with two foreigners and we could join with them. But we were not sure about our next day waking time, so we kindly declined the invitation. The place was good comparing to the price and we all went to sleep early as we were bit tired.

We woke up around 6 am (earlier than we expected) after a good night sleep. We spent some time just breathing in cool fresh air while enjoying the surrounding. Then we changed and had a heavy breakfast (which was delicious) and tried to figure out the day’s plan. As Ella Rock hike will take more than 5 hours we had not to consider it. So we went to Demodara to see the famous Railway loop first. Vehicles can access the Demodara Railway station and have to walk along the railway for around 1 km from there. You have to be very cautious as the railway is bendy, that one can’t see an on coming train until the last minute. It is mentioned that the railway is initially planned as a 11 km stretch to overcome the large elevation barrier, but Late Eng. D.J Wimalasurendra (Who was a Civil Engineer and considered as the Father of Hydro Electricity in Sri Lanka) redesigned this as a loop reducing the length to 3 km.

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Next we went to Demodara Tea Factory for a Visit. They Charge you 250 LKR per head for a factory visit. It was very informative, but sadly they don’t allow to take photographs inside the factory. There was this old majestic writing table.

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As it was about 12 noon, we thought of having lunch before visiting the famous Nine Arches Bridge. So we went back to Ella town and had our lunch in “Cafe Chill”. We felt like we were in a foreign country  as we were the only Sri Lankan customers there. Food was good and we enjoyed it very much.

There are two ways to reach nine arches bridge. You can use a vehicle to reach there via road or you can walk along the rail road from Demodara Railway loop. We chose the main road as we had to come back all the way to Demodara for our car, if we walked along the rail road. You can easily access there by a tuk tuk and can reach almost there by a car. (Last part of the road was under maintenance at the time we went, so we walked the rest of the distance). Nine arches bridge was constructed without using of Steel and concrete and it is wonderful how it bare the weight of a moving train. We spent some time there taking photographs but weren’t lucky enough to capture a train crossing the bridge.

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Rest of our friends supposed to reach Ella around 3.30 pm so we decided to have a snack until they come. We went to a place called “Ella Flower Garden Resort” just near the start of Mini Adam’s Peak trail and had some snacks and coffee. Our friends reached there around 4.15 pm, and we started to climb the “Mini Adam’s Peak”. It wasn’t steep like the “Adam’s Peak” trail and we reached to the peak within 45 minutes. There are many peaks after the initial peak, So we decided to go to them as well. we spent some quality time there with the views of Ella rock and Ella – Wellawaya Highway. Wind was high and surrounding misty mountains created a magical scenery.

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It was around 6.30 pm when we came back to Ella. Four of us stayed behind to buy dinner for the whole group and the rest hurried up to the bus stand to catch the last bus to “Karandagolla”. As it was a busy day, we had to wait until 8 pm to buy dinner and it was around 8.30 pm when we reached the 16th km post in Ella – Wellawaya highway by the car. One of my friends contacted “Meththananda” (0726 108 392) , The guide for our underground journey well before, so he had arranged us a place to spend the night in his home. All were tired and rushed to take a shower and there was a queue for the washrooms!
😀
We had our dinner as soon after we all took shower and went to sleep with the excitement for the next morning journey.

I woke up around 7 am and all others were awake then. We took our turns in the wash rooms like the last night and “Meththananda”‘s wife prepared us a delicious breakfast. One of our team members from Monaragala arrived then by his car. Meththananda lead us to a by road and we parked our cars in a place he suggested. We started our hike around 9 am. It was roughly about one kilometer trail from the place we parked our vehicles.

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We knew the hardships on our way, so we were well prepared. Every one of us had high intensity head lamps (150 Lumens and 250 Lumens) with extra batteries, Torches, Professional climbing rope, Face masks and two life jackets!

Meththananda said that we are not going to use the common entrance to the cave and going through the newly found entrance via a place called “Hulan Kapolla”. It only took few seconds to realize why it is called “Hulan Kapolla” after we reached the place. It was a tiny hole (approximately 2.5 feet diameter) in the earth and our eyes were blinded by the dust particles in the wind coming out of it.

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Our guide tied a rope around a tree lied on the ground near the “Hulan Kapolla” and he disappeared in to the hole, keeping his other two guide friends with us. We had to use the rope to get down from the two initial stages and the guides helped us by pointing up the places they use to set foot down the hole. There was space only enough to glide ourselves down through  the hole in the first stage. Next there was another hole which was wider and had to use rope plus a wooden ladder placed by Meththananda. We were glad about our high intensity head lamps as they were serving really well in the thick black tunnel. After the second stage there was a steep rocky edge to climb down.

After few minutes of sliding and crawling we entered to a large cave with more than 20 feet height and width (It is definitely more than 20 feet, exact dimensions were kept hidden under the blankets of darkness) . There were few places we had to crawl but generally there was enough space even to play a cricket match!

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We were enchanted by the views and the size of the cave and walked forward on the rocky and muddy floor. There were few places where my legs went about a foot deep in the soft soil. Walls were with very sharp texture, and we had many bruises just by touching them. Few hundred meters after the floor became steep again. There wasn’t a wall on our left side and all we could see was an endless darkness below. I was in the middle of the group and suddenly my head lamp reflected on something blue. As we knew there must be a “Nil Diya Pokuna”(meaning Blue Water Pond), I stopped and observed again.

Yes! It was crystal clear water which had a bluish touch when reflect. We all hurried down on the rocky floor and stopped just before the pond in an awe of the scenery.

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Water was cold and calm. There was no visual movement at all unless we made ripples just to reflect the light in order to take photographs. For the first few feet we could see the bottom of the pond, but after that there was only an endless darkness though the water was crystal clear.

It is said that the water is drinkable, so we had a sip and we are still okay!
😛

As we were prepared to swim in the pond, we switched to our swimwear and put on life jackets. We only took two life jackets so we had to take turns. One of us tied the rope in to a rock and put the other end in the water, just in case we needed it. We swam to the opposite end of the pond (the deeper side) with our goggles and head lamps on, but still couldn’t able to see anything below the water surface. That end had an inclined wall which ended below the water surface, which made creepy sounds when ripples collided against it. Most of our group members were regular swimmers (except a few who can’t swim at all) but all had this strange uncertain feeling about the pond, so we were careful not to do anything stupid and risk our lives. It is suspected that there is an entrance to another cave under water but still haven’t confirmed.

As the water is clear, once we aim a torch at the water surface it doesn’t reflect (we had to create ripples even to take photographs). But when we have an open light source or when we aim the torch at the walls / roof of the pond it creates a perfect reflection on the water surface. Most of the people mistake this reflection as the bottom of the pond (Which seems somewhat shallow), but definitely it is deeper than 40 feet in some parts (Some say its 80 feet, but no one has officially reached the bottom). As water is cold and using extra energy to be cautious, Two of the team mates had cramps in their legs. Therefore be careful if you are swimming in “Nil Diya Pokuna”and it is advised always to wear life jackets (We bought life jackets from Pettah for about 1500 LKR each and they served well).

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After spending about one and half hours in the pond, we changed back and started our journey to so called “Rooms” like formation in the cave. We had to use the same path as we came in for a certain distance and then take a detour to a side which was on the dark end of the cave. For the first few meters it was hard to walk on the slippery and sharp rock floor, but had enough space to walk. But then we came in to a part where all we can see was a small wedge like space between a large rock plates. It was scary as someone could get stuck in the middle!
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Then it again opened to a small path which we could crawl. I was relieved but it only remained for few minutes as  we reached a place where, literally there is no place to set foot. It was kind of a fallen rock over the cliff we were crawling on, so one had to stretch the legs while hanging on to a tiny sharp edge on the wall to reach the other end or to rely on their fate and make a step on the fallen rock which was slippery and the only thing we could see above the endless darkness beneath us. Five of the team decided to stay there (including me) and the rest of the (thin) fellows continued crawling. We went few steps back to a place with enough space to stand up and decided to observe the surrounding. We observed a small amount of graphite in soft spots of the cave wall. Mineral deposits were also observed in some places of the cave roof.

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That was the moment we had to actually use the masks we brought due to the infinite number of insects attracted to our head lamps. So we turned the head lamps in to kind of a sleep mode, which had a red LED. After getting rid of that insects, we decided to have a little rest until others arrive. We had to wait about an hour before we could hear their voices from far far away and another 10 minutes before see the light from their head lamps through the rocky barrier.

They described what was there while catching their breath. They had to crawl for around half an hour and pass another slippery obstacle to reach the “room” like formations. They have observed limestone formations. Some of them were with sharp edges. The mysterious part is there was a passage further and even “Meththananda” claims he haven’t explored it up to now.

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Then we started our journey back to surface of the earth and it was harder than descending. Each step was risky as there were nothing to stop us if we were falling. We had to give our total body weight to the arms at the last part, where we had to climb back on the rope. We were so glad that everyone came back safely and our cameras, head lamps, Life jackets, ropes & masks. Then only we realized that our cloths were totally covered in mud and our cameras were brown in color!

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We took 10 minutes to catch our breath and walked back to the place where we parked our vehicles with a huge satisfaction in mind. We decided to clean ourselves before getting in to the vehicles after eating jambu, which “Meththananda”‘s friend provided. Suddenly three Buddhist Monks and few lads arrived there and they wanted to talk to our guide, Meththananda. They were with Karandagolle sugatharansi Thero and also willing to visit the cave complex. So we took that opportunity to discuss with Sugatharansi Thero and learn more about the cave. Then we came to back to Meththananda’s place and had a long bath in a near by “Peella”. It was about 5 pm when we had our lunch. Me and another three of my friends had to leave as we had to go back to work in the morning. Others had plans to climb “Kurullangala” and then visit Karandagolla temple next day. So we said our goodbyes and came back with the sadness of missing another great hike.

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Chariot Path

sattelite-imageCrew : 11

Transportation : Bus (Kandy – Pussellawa), Hired Van (Pussellawa – Perettazi (Frotoft) Division), Hiking (Frotoft – Chariot Path – Mooloya Estate) , Bus ( Hewaheta – Kandy)

Duration : Two Days

(Please note that the path marked on the map is not a GPS track but only a graphical representation, Red triangle is the place we put our tents but i recommend camping on the place marked by a green triangle)

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Me and my friends wanted to go on a bit simpler camping trip with less hiking and less adventures. After considering many locations a place called “Chariot Path” on the Piduruthalagala Mountain Range was decided as the final destination. This year the monsoon patterns were bit odd, so it wasn’t raining on December 2016 to “Chariot Path”.

“Chariot Path” is believed to be the path that King “Rawana” took Princess “Seetha” from the Capital “Lankapura” to “Ashoka Vatika” (now Nuwara Eliya). Some say they traveled by “Dandu Monaraya” (The wooden airplane) but the common belief is that they traveled by a “Chariot” and for some reason the path remains “treeless” while all surrounding is covered with  montane rain forests. It is said that there is a pond created by fallen tears of Princess “Seetha” on top of the hill.

Many of my friends confirmed their participation as it was a long weekend and we decided to start the trip from Kandy around 8 am as few of them had to travel long distances. It was about 8.20 am when all arrived, but NuwaraEliya Bus at the stand was full. As we had many bags to carry and had a hike ahead, we got in to a “Pudaluoya” bus which travels via Pussellawa. But then another NuwaraEliya bus came and it departed well before the bus we were sitting in. But as we already took tickets, we stayed and the bus left Kandy around 9.10 am. Most of us were meeting after a long time, so had many to catch up while traveling. The main bottle neck of our journey was the part from “Pussellawa” to Frotoft Division in Delta Estate as the road conditions were bad and buses were less. As our contact said we had to be there before 9.30 am to get a seat in the 10 am bus to Frotoft from Pussellawa. Therefore we decided to hire a van from Pussellawa to make the traveling times more flexible. We reached Pussellawa around 11am and had some short eats and tea as the brunch and brought some more short eats for the hike. We were able to hire a van for 3500 LKR and realized it was very reasonable price considering the road conditions and the distance.

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The road was surrounded by a lush green tea plantation of Delta Estate, Pussellwa and the views were amazing. We saw Kothmale reservoir from Frotoft, way up on the bendy gravel road. We contacted a person (Christoper Nimal 0767189381) in Frotoft well before the trip by a number obtained by a previous group of travelers and asked his help to find the way to Chariot Path. As we reached the Frotoft Old Hospital, he came there and guided us with another friend of his.

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The first few kilometers of the path was on the dirt roads of delta estate and was comparatively easy to walk. Most of us had ordinary backpacks (for laptops) and had difficulties carrying heavy loads with back pain. The guides took us in to a small foot path towards a misty wall of mountains. It was a “one man” path along the montane forest for most of the hike and the climb was steep. As it was covered with thick forest, the steepness kept hidden to eyes but was feeling on our knees and legs. We took many water and Chocolate breaks to catch our breath. After about 2.5 hours of hiking we reached the top and was mesmerized by the scenery.

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It was over our expectations and we spent hours looking far in to the horizon and taking photographs. Our guides helped us to collect some firewood and showed “Seetha Pokuna” (Believed to be the tear pond of Princess Seetha). Water in “Seetha Pond” doesn’t flow, so it is said to have a certain saltiness. There is a spring nearby for drinkable water. The wind was strong and we had to put on our jackets and monkey caps. Then our guides went back home, leaving the whole mountain to us. Many of us took our next Facebook Profile pictures with this amazing background!

😀

Just after we finished collecting firewood, we saw some other group of hikers arriving the location via the steeper side of the mountain and later got to know that they were lost on the way but reached the destination after many kilometers of tiring climb.

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We decided to set up our tents before dusk and it was very difficult to find a suitable place due of heavy winds. Four of us had to always hang on to the corners of each tent to stop them from flying before pegging and then put our backpacks inside to make sure the tents wont fly. I have bought a tent for our Knuckles – Thunhisgala Hike but couldn’t use it as we stayed in KMP wadiya, so this was the first time it was being used. It was easy to setup and had ample space, only concern was the rain as it didn’t had a separate rain cover, which every other tent had. As we finished setting all four of our tents, another group of 12 hikers reached the Chariot path. 😛 (We thought this location was unpopular, but seemed it is not as another two groups camped there on the same day). Both other groups were enthusiastic hikers too and was friendly. We planned Instant noodles for our dinner, bread for next day breakfast and cream corn (canned) for lunch. One of my friends brought a Kerosene Cooker so we thought it will be easy to prepare our meals. But mist and heavy winds turned it around. When we looked, the lighting part of the lamp was missing and we had to tear apart a handkerchief and make one. Even then the gushing misty wind didn’t allowed us to lit the cooker so we decided to interchange the Breakfast and Dinner hoping we would be able to lit it in the morning.

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One of the tents were big enough for all eleven of us to get and sit in. We have brought Jam and Seeni Sambol, so bread was tasty and then we had chocolates for dessert. We talked for a while and went to our respective tents to sleep. Luckily few friends remained in the large tent had tried and lit the cooker after a while. We only got to know that when they invited us to have a cup of coffee in the ice cold night. Any of us didn’t thought that it would be this cold and was great to have something hot to drink. We came back to the tents after the coffee and prepared to take a nap. The grassy mountain floor made the tent floor a bit comfortable and we laid a blanket over it. No one had sleeping bags but blankets saved us from freezing. I slept for a while and woke up hearing a sound. Wind was stronger than it was and the noise it made was loud. The  sound came again and I was relieved when I realized it were my friends in the other two tents talking to each other at 3 am!!!

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After many roll overs to avoid freezing and find the perfect sleeping spot, I fall asleep and woke up around 8 am. Almost all others were then awake and preparing breakfast. We had instant noodles, Eggs, Sausages and Meatballs. It really energized us after a freezing night. One of the groups camped there, went back while we were having breakfast and the other group had trouble making a fire using firewood so we lend them our cooker for preparing breakfast. That group was planning to camp there for two days, so we gave them the firewood we collected and remaining “ready to eat” food. Then we had to take a vote for the route back home. Few said (including me) to use the same route we came up but most others wanted to try the longer route via “Mooloya Estate”. We came out of that tent and found out some feces of an animal! Someone must have visited the place in night but we didn’t hear anything. :O

We refilled our water bottles from the spring nearby and packed our bags. It was kind of a nice thing to see that all other campers were concerned about the environment and took back everything they disposed. We too took many garbage bags and dumped everything to them so we had extra bags to bring down.

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The path from “Chariot path”to “Mool Oya” Estate lies via a thick montane forest but the foot path was clearly visible guaranteeing us a safe passage. There were many loose stones and slippery edges, but all managed to climb down safely. We crossed two small waterfalls on the way. Few kilometers after, we reached to a point where the foot path became an abandoned gravel road, with signs that those parts of the estate must have used for tea plantation a long time ago. With wide road, walking was easy and we came to an old concrete bridge with an overlooking hut. The hut was in good condition and we thought of having a break there. Many of us jumped into the shallow pond before the small waterfall and freshened up by cold crystal clear water. Then we had Cheese and Cream Cracker Biscuits as our brunch and started the walk again.

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We reached to the tea plantation just few minutes from the waterfall and asked the ladies working there for directions. The views were amazing with the sun hidden behind mist over the mountains. After around 4 Kilometer walk from the top of the tea plantation, we reached to a carpet road and continued the descend. Next there was the Mool Oya Tea Factory and we luckily found a Van (Operating as a replacement to buses) to travel rest of the distance to Hewaheta. All 11 of us managed to get in to the already filled van and reached Hewaheta within half an hour. There was an empty bus parked in the halt which goes directly up to Kandy, so we happily settled in. It was around 5 pm when we reached back to Kandy.

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Thunhisgala

map-1

Crew : 7 (including a guide)

Transportation : Bus (Wattegama – Gomaraya), Three Wheeler [Tuk Tuk] (Gomaraya to Lebanon Estate), Hiking (Knuckles via Rathnagiri Estate – Narangamuwa) , Lorry ( Narangamuwa -Pallegama), Bus (Pallegama- Kandy)

Duration : Three Days

(Please note that the path marked on the map is not a GPS track but only a graphical representation)

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Day 1map-2

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One of my hiking addicted friends informed me that he has a plan for an adventure in Knuckles range and it may take three days at least. As I haven’t been to knuckles before, i confirmed my participation as soon as i heard it. Then i started my own research about the planned route of travel.

Knuckles Mountain range is located in the central Sri Lanka. Mathale – Kandy District boarder lies over this mountain range. As the name implies, there are five adjacent peaks resembling a knuckle. But altogether there are 34 peaks in the range and it has been declared as a forest reserve in Sri Lanka. Famous Meemure (Read My Visit to Meemure) lies in the middle of the Misty Knuckles Mountain Range.

We started our journey on a Friday morning. My father was kind enough to drop me and another two of my friends to Wattegama  Bus stand. The organizer of this hike came few minutes later with the guide who has been spent the night in my friends’ house. Two others were yet to arrive, so we decided to have something for Breakfast. Then we came back to the bus stand and get in to the “Gomaraya” bus hoping the other two will arrive before the bus leave. During the planning stages of this hike, one of my friends (one of the two who were late to arrive) had prepared a menu for the nine meals during our hike.

Day 1 – Breakfast – Anything from a cafe in Wattegama Bus Stand
Day 1 – Lunch – Shorteats (buy from a cafe in Wattegama Bus Stand)
Day 1 – Dinner – Roti (A flat bread/ like a thick version of pancakes)

Day 2 – Breakfast – Corn
Day 2 – Lunch – Kadala
Day 2 – Dinner – Instant Noodles

Day 3 – Breakfast – Sweet Potato
Day 3 – Lunch – Bread
Day 3 – Dinner – Bread (Hopefully we will arrive our homes before this)

Considering the variety of the list and the weight, I thought this will be limited to just a list and we will have to eat instant noodles and bread for the whole three days. But he made the list real and proved that he is a good cook too. Two of them arrived just 2 minutes before the bus left and we looked odd among the normal crowd with heavy backpacks and tent equipment. The distance to Gomraya from Wattegama was comparatively less but the narrow bendy roads took its time. The passengers started to talk with us to know where are we going and it seemed most of them were excited about the hike too. We got off from the bus in Gomaraya Junction and started walking towards “Lebanon Estate” hoping to catch three wheelers  (tuk tuks) so that we could save some energy for the real hike. Fortunately we were able to find two three wheelers (yes, 7 of us fat boys were able to utilize 2 tuk tuks!) after about one kilometer walk and reached the Lebanon Estate around 10.30 am.

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We started in a slow phase taking time to catch the breathtaking view from our cameras and with naked eye. The gravel road was damaged here and there but a 4 x 4 would easily have reached the top. Some distance along the way we saw CEB (Ceylon Electricity Board – Electricity Supplier in Sri Lanka) guys working on to supply electricity to the small houses far away on the mountain. Then we saw some crowded three wheelers coming down and realized we could have gone to the top of “Rathnagiriya Estate” by the tuk tuks we used earlier. After few kilometers walk among the tea plantation of “Rathnagiri Estate” we reached a point where a head high grass forest began. The guide somehow directed us through the thick growth to a hardly identifiable path along the contours of the mountain. The path lead us to a peak after a peak without even a single descend. We realized that we alone couldn’t have been able to find the trail and were glad that we had a guide. He said he used to work in a Cardamon plantation as a young boy but wasn’t talking very much on the first day but only talked to urge us to start the hike back when we took countless water breaks. For almost quarter of the first day trail, we were safe from leeches but they started attacking us as soon as we entered the jungle on the first peak. It was an extended dry season for knuckles as the North – East monsoons delayed, but the rain started on the day before we started our hike. That was enough to make the floor wet and leeches were appearing from nowhere like they were magicians.

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As soon as we arrived to an open space, all started plucking leeches away. Most of us have tucked our trouser hems in to the socks but surprisingly the leeches were able to reach within. Then we had our “Short-eat” lunch trying to forget the army of blood suckers surrounding us. The environment was extremely quiet, even without a noise from birds and it looked magical with the wall of wet tree barks covered from Lichens. It was around 2.30 pm when we reached the place called KMP Wadiya. No one was there when we arrived and our guide opened the doors and started to clean the inner floor without even taking a break. We had a good 10 – 20 minute session finding leeches in our shoes and attending the leech bites. Then only we saw that there were many trees with yellow bulb like fruits and found out those were a sour type of Oranges (Ambul  Dodam). Our cook friend climbed a nearby guava tree and we had guava after making weird sour faces while having Oranges (Ambul  Dodam).

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The building was in fairly good condition considering it was abandoned. It even had a water line from a nearby spring. I had the most freezing bath of my life there and then all the pain from walking with heavy backpacks and camping gear disappeared.  We all had a good chat on the floor inside the house and the guide then became talkative. When the rules are not that strict, people from nearby villages used to plant Cardamon in the valleys of Knuckles. So there were many Huts (like the one we were staying) and main income of the villagers were that. But during 2010 the forest department evaded the cardamon plantations and it is said that they have burned all Huts except this one, even with the valuables inside. That stopped the Cardamon plantation and even few villages inside the now Knuckles Forest reserve were deserted as villagers moved to near by towns looking for jobs eventually. Somehow this Hut (actually it can be referred as a house) with five rooms, living room, kitchen and a toilet was survived and hence providing shelter for the wayfarers like ourselves. We were prepared for the worst but was happy to find the toilet was in fairly good condition. Our guide said that then this building had even electricity using solar panels.

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It was becoming dark so we started to prepare roti for dinner. Our guide just converted an empty glass bottle in to a kerosene lamp (Kuppi lampuwa) so we started cooking around 6.30 pm but constant stories and smiles made it around 8 pm when we prepare the first roti. So we took turns and prepared roti until 9.30 pm. My friends have brought Kurahan (a grain) floor to mix with wheat floor so the dinner was very heavy. We prepared a bonfire but sleepy heads and strong rains made us sleep 1round 10.30 pm. There were two wooden panel bed a likes in one room and another wooden panel bed with a Coir Fiber mattress. our guide chose one of the two wooden panel beds and the rest of us chose the living room floor. We put the tarpaulin (floor of one of the tents we brought) first and the rest of the tent material on top of it. That was the bed for the night! Two of us (including me) brought bed sheets and the rest had to cover from the roof material of the tent. Initially, the tired bodies made us sleep for a while but then a cold sting woke me up. I looked at my phone and it was only 1 am. My back was paining due to the hard floor surface and the cold was too much for the cloths and the bed sheet to resist. After many peeks in to the phone for time and many rotations to find a non- aching position to sleep it was dawn. We had plan for a early morning photo shoot, but the mist due to heavy rains made it impossible. So we started to prepare the breakfast. I was hoping to see corn (with the husks on) but gladly my friends were able to find precooked sweet corn cans. We tasted it but it was cold and too much sweet. So some of us mixed tomato sauce and chili paste to it while other made the morning coffee and Kadala for lunch. The breakfast was tasty and remaining roti from the last night made it even better.

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We started day two hike around 10 am and many of us mistakenly set feet on a swamp early in the morning. So we had to face the leeches with a one dry foot and a soaking wet foot a like covered in mud. The trail was almost covered in forest and the guide said it was about five months earlier when someone traveled the path. Though we planned to set our camp on the day two night before, the heavy rains made us re-evaluate the situation and decide to find shelter on the same place as yesterday. Our backpacks were heavier than yesterday and it made us wonder how it is possible. We thought of leaving them in KMP Wadiya, but our guide said that there was an instance where some group of hikers kept there stuff in the huts for the day and many valuables were missing after another group of hikers came to the place on the same day. So we took out the non-essentials to the mountain hunt and hid it near a large rock and covered it from the tent material about a kilometer away from KMP wadiya. there were two “ë danda’s” (Single tree trunk bridging two sides). Day two was same as the day one except that we had to deal with bushes with thorns throughout the day. Leeches attacked us more and we became ore efficient in plucking and throwing them away. We used many (said) leech repellents but didn’t saw any progress. Most of us lost balance while walking due to the slippery leaves fallen over the path and the earth kissed our butts each and every time. I even twisted my ankle at some point. Gladly there was not much effect to the ankle for that injury but my leg was hurting from the hip bone, each time i had to climb higher steps. It made others to slow down and we were not sure about the heavy rains in the afternoon.

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Our destination for day two was “Thunhisgala” and found out that it is really “Thun This gala” meaning (33 peaks). It is said that the peak was named such because we can see the all other 33 peaks of the Knuckles range form that mountain. The path to the peak lied on the edge between the valleys of Thunhisgala and was covered with the head height virgin forest. There were many false peaks and it made my leg pain even worse. Each time we reached the place we thought as the peak, there was another peak higher which wasn’t visible earlier. So i decided to stop so that my friends could go faster and i could recover as there was another day left. There was only one path to the peak so they had to come back on the same path. I checked my remaining water and food status and found a place to sit comfortably.

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It even didn’t took a minute for the forest to hide my friends under its lush green top and all i could hear was the wind until few minutes. Then the Crickets started their noise and it only stopped when there was another sound. I heard the monkeys, birds and bees. Suddenly another large sound made by an animal which i couldn’t identify. Then only i realized that there are no mobile signals and my friends are far away that they can’t hear me even if i screamed! I kept listening for a while for that sound but it never heard again. So i became more confident and checked out the surrounding. Right to me was a small path with low height clearance that can be suspected as used by animals and a tiny cave! I tried to figure out is it possible for Sri Lankan leapords (Panthera Pardus Kotiya) to live nearby as knuckles has been identified as their one of the residences. But then i saw many cob webs across the path indicating no one has used that in days. So there was nothing to worry and i tried to have a nap. It was a wonderful experience surrendering to the mother nature without any other human contact even for a little while. That calmness was a reminder why monks use forests to concentrate more on meditation. My nap was disturbed by a noise and it was our guide. Next came another friend of mine. But the rest was missing, and saw their heads far away towards the Thunhisgala peak. We wait for them and started our journey back to the KMP Wadiya. The sky looked all gloomy and grayish making us worry about the things we hid in the jungle to reduce our weight. Our guide directed us through shortcuts in steep valleys and we were able to reach back to the place we kept our thing around 2 pm. Our things were safe but leeches were all over. It took us a while to get them off but reached back to Wadiya within few minutes.

We spent good one hour sharing the experiences while attending our leech bites before having an ice cold shower. It was dark sooner than expected but we were able to collect some firewood for cooking and the bonfire with the help of our guide. We changed our cooking plans a bit and inter changed Day 2 dinner with the Day 3 Breakfast as boiling sweet potato in the morning may delay our Day 3 journey. So we prepared Sweet potato and ate it with “Seeni Sambol” we brought. But it was not enough for hungry 7 tummies so that we ate one loaf of bread as well. The rain was delayed than the previous day so we made a good bonfire and shared stories in the warmth of the fire. Learning from the previous night experiences we agreed to sent someone to use the wooden panel bed, and it was me who volunteered. It was same as the cement floor but the added height from the ground made me feel less cold and had a good sleep.

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All were up early in the Day 3 but it was still dark around 6 am. We prepared noodles for the breakfast and had it while on the same saucepan that we cooked. We took our time to pack the bags and it was around 10 am when we leave. For the first section we had to use the same path we used to climb Thunhisgala. We remembered the swamp and went around it. I was third in line at the start and the “Ë danda” just broke and fell off while i was on it! Luckily i managed to jump before it fell and others had to cross that creek using stones peeking over the crystal clear water. We took many water breaks as it was a steep climb and it empties our water bottles sooner than we expected. Each step we took was uncertain as the ground was wet and we couldn’t see where to set foot as it was covered from a wet layer of decaying leaves. We forgot the count, how many times we fell and how many times our ankles sprained. We smelled like mud and looked like wild bores. We reached “Reana Ketu Pathana” around 11.15 and spent sometime resting. The path there onward was more flat and it made us walk faster. Then we reached “Pelessa” peak and the view from there was mesmerizing. We had plans to visit “Wannimana” and “Uda Wannimana” but our guide said that we will not be able to reach Narangamuwa before dusk and then we might have to spend another day. As we were not prepared for it, thought of satisfying just from the view of “Uda Wannimana” and plan another hike there.

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There was only trace of a path made by the cattle from “Pelessa” onward. So we crawled above a few hundred meters downfall, holding on to everything we could. As there was no ascending, we traveled much faster and took less water breaks (we had almost no water at this point). Around 12.30 pm we reached a waterfall and decided to have the Lunch. The three day old bread tasted better with the Jam and Seeni Sambol we brought. We refilled our water bottles and started our journey back within few minutes. The steepness became less along the way and reached to almost flat path after around one hour. The jungle looked less thicker and we saw a fully dried out remains of a large stream of water. It was a very sad scene to look at. After many kilometers of walk we saw the signs of human presence near Narangamuwa. It was a chena and an old lady was working on it. Then there was a mud hut (people were living there) and many houses with same appearance on the way. It took around another kilometer walk for us to see a house with electricity supply and another kilometer to reach a proper concrete road. Then the walk was easy and we reach to a little boutique in Narangamuwa around 3 pm. We bid farewell to our guide there as he had pans to visit his relatives in Narangamuwa and Cleaned ourselves before putting on less smelly cloths. We were able to hire a small lorry to drop us to Pallegama and no one wanted to use the seats in front. We all get on to the back of the lorry and enjoyed the ride. We saw a Hettipola – Dambulla Bus on the way and were able to get on to it. Gladly the bus wasn’t crowded so we could travel with ease without disturbing other passengers with our smell and heavy backpacks.

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As soon as we got off from Dambulla we found a Kandy bus. One of my friends was traveling to Kurunegala and the other to Colombo, so they took a bus to Colombo via Kurunegala. Kandy bus was crowded and we couldn’t find any seats until half of the way. My father picked me up from Kandy and reached home around 8.30 pm.

Uthuwankanda

map1Crew: 7

Transportation: Two Cars

Duration: Half day (May need one day if you are visiting Saradiel Village too)

 

There was a sudden suggestion to climb Uthuwankanda, which is famous for being the hideout for a local bandit, Saradiel. Since it is a few kilometer drive from Kandy Uthuwankanda was perfect for a mini hike and i too decided to join. But before the hike i thought of refreshing my memories about the stories of Saradiel.

Dekirikewage Saradiel AKA “Uthuwankande Sura Saradiel” is a bandit who later became a gang leader. People refer him as the “Robin Hood of Sri Lanka” as he used to rob from the rich and distributed them among the poor. He was born in 25th of March, 1932 as the eldest of a family where father was a tobacco merchant. His father was from “Haldanduwana” (in Dankotuwa area) and mother was from Uthuwnkanda (Mawanella Area). It is said that he studied in Illukgoda temple which was ended by Saradiel assaulting a boy from a rich family who was related to the Vidane (A hereditary leader post in colonial system who usually is from a wealthy, influential family) and being arrested. Young Saradiel had formed a gang to kidnap a wealthy merchant in Kandy, called “Bawa” and robbed him after cutting half of his mustache. Saradiel managed to escape to Colombo after distributing the things he robbed among villagers.

He then joined the Ceylon Rifle Regiment cantonment in Slave Island as a Barrack Boy and learned to used weaponry from soldiers. Later he was dismissed after caught in act of theft from the Barracks. Even then he managed to come back to Uthuwankanda with some stolen weapons from the barracks and continued his work of crime as a highway robber. It is said that Saradiel killed a Man called “Natakoti Chettiyar” during his robberies and arrested but then released due to lack of evidence. Then a warrant was issued for the arrest of Saradiel after a robbery in Molligoda Walawwa (Walawwa is a word used to refer the house of wealthy, which means mansion).  He thought to seek protection of his father and went to Chillaw. But his father was disappointed about Saradiel and refused to provide protection. So he came back but police arrested him near Pillawatte in Negombo after a tip off. Saradiel managed to stab the police informant during the arrest, critically wounding him to die after few days. Police produced him before the Justice of the Peace – Negombo on 3rd of July, 1962, who committed him to fiscal custody in Hulftsdorp Jail to be tried for murder. On dawn of 29th of November 1862, Saradiel climbed to the roof and jumped off the prison roof with help from a friend called Magiris Appu, who worked as a peon in the prison and later sentenced to six months for helping to a prison break.

Saradeil then returned to Uthuwankanda, but rearrested by the village police constable called “Baba Sara”. With past experiences with Saradiel it is decided to keep him pinioned & handcuffed at all times, to be escorted in the custody of a police constable and few fiscal peons and not to travel after dusk and only to stop at Police Stations. But the officials have underestimated him and un-pinioned at Balapane and also let Saradiel’s Step father join the escort party from Ambepussa Police Station onward. It is believed that his step father had supplied liquor to the escort party so that Saradiel could escape. Saradiel escaped again even with his handcuffs on this time, challenging the authority of English governors among the natives. Government then decided to put a five pound reward for his arrest.
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**Government Gazette Extraordinary of 10th January 1863 :

Birth place: Uttoowankandy.
Residence: Uttoowankandy.
Trade: Boutique keeper.
Caste: Wellala.
Religion: Buddhist.
Age: 31 years.
Height: 5ft 3ins.
Hair : Long.
Eyes: Hazel.
Complexion: Brown.
Make [Build]: Well.
Read and Write: Both.
School: Private school.
Family: None.
Former convictions: None.
Distinguishing marks: mark of a mole on the right cheek.
Escaped: 29-Nov., 1862, from Hulftsdorp Jail.

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Saradiel came back to Uthuwankanda and used it as the hideout for his gang consisting Hawadiya, Bawa, Sirimale, Kirihonda, Suwanda and Mammalay Marikkar who is considered Saradiels best friend. This gang robbed 500 rupees (A big amount at that time) from an Arab horses seller at knife point in Galagedara area and killed another two vendors in the vicinity out of suspicion they could have been police informants. This incident again made a huge impact on the rulers which made them to send soldiers and police officers under the supervision of Chief Superintendent McCartney and assisted by villagers to raid Uthuwankanda. When Saradiel saw that there was no other way to escape, he rushed a herd of buffaloes through the thick human wall while hanging on to the neck of a buffalo hiding under its belly, avoiding the arrest. Due to this constant raids of Uthuwankanda, Saradiel moved towards Aranayake giving a severe headache to the European planters of that area. Government had to setup a new police Station in Aranayake due to their requests and strengthen adjacent Police Stations. They also increased the price on Saradiel’s arrest to 100 pounds and 25 pounds each for his gang members.
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In February of 1964, a police party headed by Head Constable Amat who was from Utuwankanda raided a house out of suspicion, but they could only find some stolen money and weapons. Again on 17th of March 1864, two police troops headed by Head Constable Amat and Special Constable George Van Haght raided Saradiel’s mother’s house after receiving information that Saradiel and his best friend Mammala Marikkar were hiding. At this time Special Constable George Van Haght was under suspension for not effectively assisting the arrest of Saradiel. This made him want to prove otherwise and suddenly ordered his team to storm the house. Saradiel’s mother saw them and had enough time to warn her son and his friend. Saradiel and Malmmala stormed out of the house shooting George Van Haght dead and mortally wounding Sergeant Christian Appu (Van Haght’s father in law) and injuring Sergeant Muttusamy and two others who were in the George Van Haght’s team. This made Chief Superintendent McCartney to raise the price of Saradiel’s arrest to 150 pounds but rumors said Saradiel fled to Mathale area and hiding in a jungle.

Sirimale, a member of Saradiel’s gang then became a police informant and arranged a two storied safe house on the Colombo Kandy Road owned by a person named Abdul Cader in Mawanella. Then he tipped off Sergeant Ahamath Mahat and Constable Tuan Saban about the hideout. Two policemen entered the house from the back door and Sergeant Mahat took a shot at Saradiel at the first sight, injuring him. That made Constable Tuan Saban to celebrate the victory too early and Mammale Marikkar fired, killing him on the spot. Sergeant Ahamath Mahat then hide near the stair case making it hard for Marikkar and injured Saradiel to escape without being a target to his revolver. Then Assistant Government Agent of Kegalle, F.R. Saunders arrived the location with forces from Ceylon Rifle Regiment and surrounded the house. Both Saradiel and his friend then surrendered realizing there was no way to escape. Saunders hit Saradiel hard with his cane during the arrest, causing a fracture in his right arm. Saradiel and Mammala Marikkar were escorted to Kandy on the same night.
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Both of them were charged for the murder of Constable Tuan Saban and were tried by an English speaking Jury before Justice Thompson. Considering the history of Saradiel, Advocate Dunuwila who was initially assigned, refused to appear for the accused and government assigned attorneys Purcell and J. Van Langen. Both of them were found guilty and sentenced to death by hanging and were hanged at Gallows Hill in Kandy on 7th of May 1864. Thousands gathered expecting to see a well built man but were surprised to see a slim man with a pleasant face. Mammalay Marikkar was out of his words before execution but Saradiel addressed the crowd and advised the gathering to take a lesson from his life and avoid such acts.
…………………………………………………………………………………………………..………………………………** The Colombo Overland Observer describes the event as quoted by AC Dep, retired DIG of Police, in his book, A History of the Ceylon Police Vol: I (1795-1866) (Colombo: Author, 1982):

“All the available Policemen in Kandy formed part of the procession. The Roman Catholic minister, Rev. Duffo, went with Saradiel from the jail and the Mohammedan Priest attended on the Moorman. It was quite clear that the prospect of death had completely unnerved the two unfortunate men. They were both pale and the Moorman in particular appeared to be greatly affected. Saradiel walked pretty steadily, reading out of a book, which he held in hand, but the Moorman was quite knocked down, and scarcely once lifted up his head during the walk. The procession passed through the town at a funeral pace until it reached the Hill on which the gallows had been erected.”
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Saradiel and Mammala Marikkar were buried at the Mahaiyawa cemetery in Kandy and a  Police guard was maintained since there was a demand for the bodies. Queens Advocate Richard F. Morgan who conducted the case, commanded the zeal and bravery of Constable Saban and Sergeant Mahat for taking part in the arrest of these two defied law and order, in his report to the Colonial Secretary. Constable Tuan Saban of the Kandy Police Station was the first ever regular Police Officer of the Ceylon Police to sacrifice his life in the course of duty. Later March 21st was declared to commemorate Police heroes in in Sri Lanka every year.
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It is said that Sergeant Mahat was promoted to Head Constable and received a price of 35 pounds. Sergeant Muttusamy received a price of 20 pounds and the son of late Constable Tuan Saban received 30 pound for his father’s bravery. Also Saban’s wife was awarded with a monthly pension of 2 pounds and 6 shillings for life. Christian Appu’s family also received a pension. It is said that Special Constable George Van Haght’s family never received a pension, considering he was on suspension at that time and did not even considered his heroic death as a death of a police officer in the course of duty. Though Saradiel caused terror among the rich, he was a provider for the poor. There is a story of Saradiel once stole from a person who was collecting money for his daughter’s dowry and came to know that later. Then he asked the man to meet him at a certain place and returned the stolen money and another amount as a gift from. There is also a story which says Saradiel was sentenced to death after receiving a letter from the Queen saying ‘kill him, not let him go’, when it was supposed to be ‘kill him not, let him go’.

All that being said, i was interested to see the place which sheltered Saradiel during many raids. I was thinking there must be a special reason for Saradiel to always come back to Uthuwankanda despite it was constantly being raided. Our initial plan was to take a Kegalle bus from Kandy and get down from Uthuwankanda and climb to the peak and follow the same route back home. But then we decided to use two cars considering the flexibility of traveling time and locations. Two cars left Kandy around 7.30 am and it was about 8.00 am when we reached Pilimathalawa to pick another friend. The crew consisted of four males and three females of the same age. We stopped somewhere before Kadugannawa for breakfast and leisurely enjoyed it as there was plenty of time. But the roads bacame busy with travelers realizing us that it is a long weekend and the place can get crowded as we getting delayed.
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We reached Uthuwankanda and turned to “Uthuwana” road. The road was under construction but was manageable to travel by cars. There were many people and we were wondering what might attract such a big crowd for a hike. Seeing many old people in the crowd made us rethink of the idea about the “hike” but then realized all that crowd were visiting the new attraction “Saradiel Village”, a private owned resort with live size statues resembling the life story of Saradiel. We wanted to visit there but we decided to postpone it considering the crowd. Uthuwankanda is a small mountain with a rocky peak and the access road was even concreted for most of the length. Considering the crowd going to Saradiel village, the hiking part was deserted. It was not hard to climb and half way through we met another team climbing down. They directed us towards the caves which is believed to shelter Saradiel.
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Climb towards the caves is not hard and we had to go through a small passage between two rock to enter the caves. (Nothing much to worry about, but thinner you are it will be better 😀 ). We entered the caves with our mobile phone flash lights on, as we were not prepared for a cave expedition. For couple of meters we had to crawl but then the passage got taller enabling us to stand up. Then we came to a small room like place and didn’t went further as the cave got smaller and we were not prepared. (Total length of the passage we travel didn’t exceeded 50m). Then we came out and had a small rest there. The caves were hot and it was hard to breath as there is no proper ventilation inside. Almost every inch of the outer cave walls were scribbled by travelers and  polythene and plastic/glass bottles were dumped everywhere. It was a very disturbing and sad scene to see, what people do to harm nature without considering the effects on their own lives.
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We couldn’t identify the exact path on the way up, but reached the rocky part without much trouble as the mountain was small. Then we started to climb the rocky peak. Me and two others decided no to climb the peak and helped other four to climb. The first part was almost 90 degrees climb and then the middle became easy. There is a kind of square shaped rock on the top and my friends even climbed it. After many photographs and eyes full of scenic view from the top we came back down around 11 am. The crowd towards Saradiel village was then doubled and we decided to have lunch before planning the evening stroll.

We had our lunch in a place near Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage and decided to visit “Asupini Ella” (Read my last hike to Asupini Ella) in the evening. It took us some time to reach Asupini Ella via B172 route. The road was good and even the final bit towards Asupini ella is concreted. We stopped our cars near to the top pool of asupini ella and waked towards the observation point. The waterfall was on its full blow making a very beautiful scene. Old memories were recalled seeing the path we climbed few years back and  realized how much a risk we took in that hike. It was dusk when we took our eyes out from the waterfall and came back to Kandy around 7.30 pm.
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Photo courtesy
Chamitha Rathnayake

Reference
* Saradiel – The Robin Hood of Sri Lanka by W.T.A Leslie Fernando

** Uthuwankande Sura Saradiel – The Robin Hood of Sri Lanka – උතුවන්කන්දේ සූර සරදියෙල්
by M.D. (Tony) Saldin

*** Uthuwankande Sura Saradiel – wikipedia

Off Season Sri Pada

MapCrew : 7

Tranportation : Train (From Kandy to Hatton)
Van  (From Palabaddara to Rathnapura)
Bus (From Rathnapura to Kandy)

Duration : Two Days

One of my friends suggested that we should climb the Adam’s Peak (Mostly known as Sri Paada even among foreigners). There were stories of few locals who climbed Sri pada during off peak and had met elephants, wild boar and even leopards. Keeping all that in mind, I too agreed for the adventure. I was bit busy with exams just before the trip, so that i didn’t even knew who else are coming and what are the routes we are planning to go on.

Sri pada means the “sacred foot print” in sinhala. Buddhists believe that it is of Lord Buddha. It is said that also Hindus believe the foot print belong to Shiva, Muslims and Christians believe it belongs to Adam, but have noted only Buddhists visits Sri pada to worship the sacred foot print. Others do visit, but not with the religious aspects. This 2243 meter high mountain is located in central hills and it is said that all four of the major rivers (Mahaweli, Kelani, Kalu, Walawe) of Sri Lanka starts from this mountain (But actually only one starts from here). It is said that the area was ruled by Saman,who later became a god, hence the mountain was refered “Samanthakuta” earlier. Then “Saman Deviyan (god)” invited Lord Buddha to set the sacred foot print during the second visit to Sri Lanka. There are three famous routes to Sri pada peak.

1.Nallathanni in Hatton (6 km)
2.Palabaddara(Sri Palabaddara) in Rathnapura (8 km)
3.Erathna in Kuruwita (14 km)

Other than that it is said that there are another infamous hikes from Murraywatte, Mookuwatte and Malimboda (which i haven’t traveled in). Normally the season for Sri pada pilgrimage starts from January (Duruthu Full moon Poya) and ends in May (Esala full moon Poya). Usually the routes get flooded with pilgrims during the season. Most of them visits Sri Pada to Worship the sacred foot print and get blessings while hoping to see the Sunrise from top of this mountain.

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On the day we planned the trip, I went to the Peradeniya Railway Station to catch the Colombo – Badulla Train. As it was during the Kandy Perahera, there were many tourists waiting for that train to continue their trips after watching the perahera the day before. Few of my friends were already on the train, who got in from Colombo and another three waiting in the Kandy railway statiion. The train arrived and i couldn’t believe my eyes, it was flooded with people which i guessed might be coming to Kandy to see the Perahera. The train goes to Kandy from Peradeniya and come back to Peradeniya to continue the journey to Badulla. So i thought of waiting until it comes back, hoping most of the crowd will get down from there. Few minutes later my friends who were at Kandy called and said they were coming back but still it will be difficult to get in with the crowd. I rushed to a carriage and got in with f